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Electronic
Ignition Instructions
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The Electronic Ignition Kit consists of the following: Flywheel,
Stator Plate, Regulator, CDI Unit, Earth Wire, and instructions. |
| When
fitted correctly the electronic ignition system should prove to be a worthwhile
investment. Unlike points systems, the electronic ignition will never
need to be reset (unless you remove the magneto flange). |
| Myths |
| Contrary to popular myth the Indian Electronic Flywheel is not heavier than an original Italian Flywheel. Listed below are the original weights of each of the flywheels fitted to Italian Innocenti Lambretta’s. |
| 4-Pole Ducati Brass Points Flywheel | Italian Series 1, 2 & Early Series 3 | 2.65kgs |
| 6-Pole Ducati Brass Points Flywheel | Italian Early Series 3 | 2.65kgs |
| 6-Pole Ducati Diecast Points Flywheel | Italian Late Series 3 | 3.25kgs |
| 6-Pole Ducati Diecast Points Flywheel | Italian GP models | 3.25kgs |
| 6-Pole Ducati Diecast Electronic Flywheel | Italian GP models | 3.25kgs |
| Indian Electronic Flywheel | Late Indian GP models | 2.60kgs |
| Suitability |
| The Indian Electronic Flywheel may not be suitable for a highly tuned Lambretta, which requires in most cases a lightened flywheel, but is perfectly suitable for a standard scooter. |
| Flywheel
and Stator Plate |
| The
electronic flywheels and stator plates we receive from India require the
flywheel fins to be machined down from the longer fins to original length
fins as fitted to all Italian Lambretta’s. This is so that the flywheel
can be fitted without having to change the flywheel cover. |
| The
wiring on the Indian electronic stator plate is changed because the stator
plate we receive is intended for use on a Scooters India 3-wheeler. The
wiring harness would be too short in length and the colours and connections
would be incorrect. |
| All
flywheels and stator plates are tested in pairs at Scooters India before
leaving the factory; over the past 8 years we have sold over 3000 units
with another 1000 units in stock. |
| Electronic
Ignition Kits from India |
| There
are two types of electronic ignition kits available from India. The original
is from Scooters India Ltd and the other is a copy of the Scooters India
Electronic kit. The majority of the problems that we have heard of have
been found on the copy Indian electronic kits. We only buy the original
Scooters India electronic kit. |
| From our experience the common problems that customers experience when setting up an electronic ignition are due to incorrect installation. These problems can be avoided by carefully following the instructions below. |
| A guide to fitting the Electronic Ignition Kit | |||
| Remove
6V Points System |
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First you will have to
remove the original 6V Points system comprising of the flywheel, stator
plate, h.t.coil, battery, horn, rectifier or regulator and wiring loom. |
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| Tools & Electronic Extras | |||
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Before removing your
old electrical system ensure that you have all the necessary special Lambretta
tools and electronic extras to complete the fitment of your electronic
ignition system. |
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| Check
the Condition of the Crankshaft |
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Before fitting your new
electronic ignition system, check the condition of your crankshaft taper
for any high spots or damage, which might cause further damage to the
new flywheel centre boss. Ensure that both the flywheel centre boss surfaces
are clean and dry. Also check that the woodruff key is undamaged and a
firm fit in both keyways. Check the crankshaft for any excessive play
and the magneto flange is in good condition. |
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| Fitting C.D.I & Regulator | |||
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| CDI Unit (Capacitor/Discharge Ignition Unit) | |||
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The C.D.I. Unit
contains several different types of electronic components, such as the
S.C.R (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) P.N. Junction Diode and Condensor.
On receiving the charge from the low tension coil, the diode (D2) charges
the condensor (C1) The pick-up sends a controlled signal to the diode
(S.C.R.); the latter, fired, realises the discharge of the condensor C1
on the primary of the ignition coil and hence produces on the secondary
the necessary tension for the spark plug. |
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Checking operations of the electronic equipment |
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All
checking operations of the electrical equipment, which involves disconnecting
the wires (checking of the connections and the devices
that are component parts of the ignition circuit) should be carried
out with the engine cutout: if not the electronic CDI unit and stator
plate can suffer irreparable damage. Do not place the stator plate wiring
to earth whilst trying to kick the scooter over. This again could cause
damage to the one or more of the electrical components
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| Regulator |
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| The 12V regulator has 3 terminals; connect the yellow wire
from the stator plate to the first terminal on the left hand side, the
brown/grey wire with the clear terminal cover from the wiring loom to
the second regulator terminal and the earth wire to the third regulator
terminal on the right hand side. (See drawing No. 2) |
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| Stator
Plate |
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| Place
the new electronic stator plate into the magneto flange. Be careful to
ensure that the stator plate sleeving and wiring is positioned correctly
and is not trapped behind the back of the stator plate base, this could
possibly cause the wiring to be damaged and earth out. Also be careful
not to damage the surface of the 5 enamelled copper wire coils, particularly
the ignition low tension coil next to the pick up box which can be identified
by the self adhesive insulated cotton tape, this coil is extremely delicate.
Any damage to this coil will lead to electrical problems. Lightly tighten
the three locating bolts so that they are central in their slots being
careful to ensure the stator plate sits squarely in place otherwise this
could cause one of the stator plate slots to break. |
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| Flywheel |
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| Setting up the Ignition Timing |
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| We
strongly recommend that you use a dial gauge to set the timing, the cylinder
head, exhaust and head cowling must be removed, (a timing disc can also
be used for the same job). |
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| With the cowling and cylinder head removed, you can now fit the dial gauge to the top of the cylinder. Rotate the flywheel until you find T.D.C. (top dead centre – the highest point that the piston travels up the cylinder). | |
| When you have found T.D.C. set the dial gauge to zero. On the outer lip of the flywheel fins there is an arrow, which faces the outer edge of the magneto flange. With the dial gauge set to zero at T.D.C. make a notch on the magneto flange opposite the arrow on the flywheel. (Ignore any previous markings that have been made on the other lip of the magneto flange, these would have been made when the scooter was fitted with a points system and these are in a different position to an electronic system) This is now your T.D.C. mark. | |
| From the T.D.C. mark, rotate
the flywheel anti-clockwise so the dial gauge rotates to 2.0mm (19 degrees
if using a timing disc) for GP electronics or 2.5mm (21 degrees if using
a timing disc) for LI/SX electronics. Again at this point make a notch
against the arrow. (Ignoring any previous marking) |
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| Next rotate the flywheel further, when the dial shows the reading 3.0mm corresponding to 23 degrees BTDC; mark the third mark on the magneto flange. | |
| Looking through the window on
the flywheel (five o’clock) you will notice two lines inscribed on the
outer edge of the flywheel. These two lines have to match up exactly with
the two lines on the stator plate pick-up box when the flywheel is at
B.T.D.C. (Before top dead centre) |
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| If the two pairs of lines on both stator plate and flywheel do not match up you will need to remove the flywheel, slacken the stator plate bolts and move the stator plate in the direction needed to line up both the stator and flywheel. When the two pairs of lines meet up exactly your timing is set and should not need altering. | |
| Before trying to kick the scooter
up, remember to fit and tighten the flywheel centre nut and spring washer.
The flywheel must be held with a flywheel-holding tool whilst the nut
is tightened (anti-clockwise) with a 17mm socket and a torque wrench to
50 lbs/ft (6-6.5 kgs). Please note that you have the correct flywheel
centre nut and washer for the electronic flywheel purchased. There are
three different type of flywheel nuts originally fitted to Series 1, 2,
3 & GP and only two are suitable for use with the two different types
of electronic flywheels. The 6-pole brass flywheel nut and washer is suitable
for the LI/SX flywheel, and the SX/GP die cast flywheel nut and washer
is suitable for the GP electronic flywheel. Ensure that you have the
frame to engine earth wire connected. |
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| Now that the timing has been, you can now refit the cylinder head, cowlings, exhaust etc. | |
| As a further measure to ensure that you have set up your timing correctly we recommend that you use a stroboscopic gun. These can be purchased from most high street car accessory shops | |
| Remove the spark plug cap from
the spark plug. Fit the lead from the stroboscopic gun on to the spark
plug and the other lead into the spark plug cap. Next paint the arrow
on the flywheel with some white paint or Tipex, then start the scooter
and place the gun near the flywheel fins being careful not to get to close.
Timing is correct if the mark on the magneto flange at BTDC aligns with
the timing arrow on the flywheel at idling rpm and at 3000rpm and above.
At 1200rpm the arrow should be within 3 degrees of the BTDC mark. If the
timing arrow is not aligning with the BTDC mark, remove flywheel rotor
and adjust stator plate accordingly, to get the correct ignition timing. |
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| Don’t forget to change all the bulbs from 6 Volt to 12 Volt | |
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Ensure that all necessary earth wires are fitted |
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| Frame to engine to regulator earth wire | |
| This particular earth wire is extremely important. Fasten the middle 6mm round terminal, to it’s original position on the rear frame strut. Next fasten the 5mm round terminal to the magneto flange on the side of the cowling, and last of all fasten the round terminal to the 6mm bolt on left-hand side of the regulator. (Alternatively you could purchase a new frame to engine earth wire with a 6.4mm spade terminal which can be connected straight into thr regulator earth connection) This particular earth wire for some reason most people seem to either forget to fit or think that the scooter is either earthed though the cables, the engine silent block mounts or by some other means of earthing. Not having this earth wire connected is one of the biggest causes of electrical problems. | |
| 12V regulator earth wire to frame |
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| CDI earth wire | |
| This
earth wire comes already attached to the CDI unit and must be earthed
to the CDI mounting bracket. |
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| Rear
light earth wire |
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| Fitted to all Lambretta scooters, connects into the rear light bulb holder and is earthed to the frame. | |
| Headlight earth wire | |
| Fitted to all Lambretta scooters, connects to the white earth terminal on the Headlight bulb holder to the headlight rim. This method has not always been a successful way of earthing the headlight unit, due to the earth wire being connected to the headlight rim, so you may prefer to use a separate earth wire fitted to one of the four screws behind the gear/throttle wheel. | |
| Follow the Electronic Ignition wiring diagram as supplied with the electronic ignition kit. | |
| Fault Finding | |
| If
you have followed the instructions above and are experiencing problems
with your electronic ignition system, below is a list of ways to test
the various components, which make up the electronic ignition system. |
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| In
the case of a defective ignition, which grounds cannot be immediately
located with an inspection at first sight, first replace the electronic
CDI Unit with one in prefect condition. (Try one from a scooter that is
working) The disconnection and connecting operations for the replacement
of the electronic CDI unit should be carried out with the engine cut-out. |
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| If
the replacement CDI unit restores the ignition, the CDI unit should be
obviously replaced with one in good condition. |
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| If
the electronic ignition is still found to be faulty, inspect the components
on the stator plate. Check to see if there is any damage to the wiring
and see if any of the soldering, connections, rivets or earth tags have
come loose. Then by means of an electrical multi-tester that can measure
resistances from 1 to 1000 ohms verify the low tension coil/charge coil
and the pickup as follows. |
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| Connect
the tester between the green wire and the white wire; it should measure
continuity and ohms value 480+ 15 ohms. (The Scooters India low
tension coil (Coil no. 5) has fewer turns at 3100 on the coil than a piaggio
low tension coil, the coil reads a slightly lower ohms reading). Then
connect the tester between the red wire and the white wire, it should
measure continuity and ohms value 100+
5 ohms. (Ohms values taken from technical drawings supplied by
Scooters India). We have been told by Scooters India that due to air temperature
(climate) the readings can vary, so don’t be surprised if the readings
above are 30 to 40 ohms lower in winter than in summer. |
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| Then
by means of an electrical multi-tester that can measure voltage from 0
to 200 volts verify the low-tension coil/charge coil and the pickup
as follows. Be extremely careful when using the multi-tester not to
short out the green and red terminals with each other or directly with
the white terminal. For the low-tension coil connect the tester between
the green wire and the white wire on the CDI unit; the reading should
measure between 35 to 180 volts depending on rpm. To check the
pick up coil connect the tester between the red wire and the white wire
on the CDI unit; the reading should measure 0.03 volts. If the
above readings are correct the problem lies somewhere else. (Voltage values
as supplied by Scooters India) |
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| If after having checked the low-tension coil and the pick up, the readings are not as above replace the stator plate or the damaged parts | |
| Lighting Coils |
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| The 4 other coils on the stator plate that generate the power for the lighting system very rarely cause any problems (this is probably due to the number of turns on the coils being much less and the enamelled copper wire being much thicker) | |
| Recommended Tools | ||
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SR
No. 16-20*
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Italian/Indian & Spanish Flywheel Extractor |
£6.00
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SR
No. 16-3*
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GP/LI/SX/AF Flywheel Holding Tool (2 & 3 prong) |
£18.00
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SR
No. 16-30*
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125/150/175 Dial Gauge bracket |
£15.00
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SR
No. 16-31*
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200/225 Dial Gauge Bracket |
£15.00
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SR
No. 16-46*
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Dial Gauge (Metric) |
£35.00
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SR
No. 16-14*
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Plug Spanner |
£2.50
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